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Technical Blog - Transform Warmth into Cool with the help of RPR Mycolour Green


   

Technical Blog - Transform Warmth into Cool with the help of RPR Mycolour Green
Summary: The Green concentrate is the newest addition to the Mycolour palette which enables technical assistance with colouring in various areas. It is a powerful tool for cooling tones and removing unwanted warm tones when lifting natural levels and removing red tones from the hair when wanting to create strong reflective such as Blue Black. Learn more...

RPR MYCOLOUR GREEN

The Green concentrate is the newest addition to the Mycolour palette which enables technical assistance with colouring in various areas. It is a powerful tool for cooling tones and removing unwanted warm tones when lifting natural levels and removing red tones from the hair when wanting to create strong reflective such as Blue Black. Cool overtones from artificial warm reflects and transforming artificial Red shades to more natural tones without being confronted with the technicalities of colour corrections can also be achieved.  Below we will look at time saving and effective technical procedures on how to transform warmth into cool with the help of the Green concentrate.
 
  
 
 
When lifting natural levels from as low as one level, let alone up to three levels, it is without doubt the hair will expose warm red/orange underlying pigment. Whether it is with the use of 5, 10, 20 or 30 volume peroxide, once the cuticle is opened and an oxidisation process begins within the cortex, warm exposed pigments are inevitable. The simplest way to control the amount of warmth appearing is by adding Green to your formula. 
 
 
Even though the base of the Natural already contains an underlying green pigment depending on the hair type, natural level and density, it may not be strong enough to counteract the exposed warm tones during the lifting process. Adding more green pure pigment to the formula strengthens the underlying pigment of the Natural colour, therefore counteracting more exposed warm pigments and achieving less warm and more cool results. Green can be added to any cool formula requiring assistance in counteracting warm underlying pigments such as Ash, Beige, Violet Natural, Intense Natural and Intense Natural Gold tones. 
 
 
A good guide on how much Green to add is 1gram per every 10grams of colour. Keep in mind that when adding a concentrate such as Green to a formula, it is added blind, meaning no extra peroxide needs to be added.
 
E.g. 10g Natural 6 + 10g 6.1 + 2g Green + 30g Peroxide
 

In the next section we look at how to remove Red from the hair in a simple technique as preparation for producing and creating new tones. This is a technique used for removing artificial Red colours and exposed warm pigments due to colour fade between colours. Ideal for when creating Blue Black tones and darker Violet reflects.
 
Formula

20g Green + 30g RPR Untangle Me (Untangle Me can be replaced by warm water)
 
 
Procedure
  1. Gently shampoo the hair with RPR Dechlorinate or SO Deep clarifying shampoo. (Do not scrub the scalp as this will stimulate the scalp and cause possible irritation during following colour procedure.)
  2. Towel dry well.
  3. Apply Green mix to the hair concentrating on artificial area.
  4. Process 10 to 20 minutes depending on depth of warmth or red pigment to be removed.
  5. Rinse very well and towel dry. Do not shampoo.  
  6. Bring the client back to station and blow dry hair 100%. Once dry, cool hair by depressing cold button on blow dryer to prevent over processing or darker results.
  7. Apply colour formula as per consultation and desired result.
  8. Process and remove colour.
  9. Finish with appropriate basin treatment, rinse well and style as desired.
 
Have Fun With Green

For fun, Green can create interesting fashion tones on pre-lightened blonde hair when mixed with 5 volume peroxide. It all comes down to how creative you choose to be. Green creates teal when mixed equal parts with Blue. Lime can be created by adding Yellow to Green. Add Neutral to these formulas and it opens a new world of pastel tones waiting to be explored. These are a great alternative for those clients who want to be more expressive with hair colour but only in the short term. They are removed easily from the hair compared to a staining direct dye therefore can be changed more often to different reflects. 
 
Creativity Is Limitless With Mycolour

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